The Rape of the Sabine Women at the Piazza della Signoria is such a powerful sculpture that it's difficult for me to look at the humanity of it.
In Italy, art surrounded us wherever we went. At the villa, the main house had paintings that were hundreds of years old, as well as beautiful painted ceramic tile floors and frescoes on the walls. In Florence, our wonderful hotel was just around the corner from the Piazza della Signoria. The piazza has a fantastic outdoor sculpture gallery and one morning, we got up early to take photos there. It was such an amazing experience to get to explore the statues by ourselves.
We also got to meet and hang out with an Italian/American scultor at work on a plaster cast for a bronze he was working up. And in Deruta, a town dating to Neolithic times, painted ceramics were everywhere, being sold and also used as decoration on buildings. Ceramic workshops have existed here since the 15th century.
Given that we were in Italy, after all, magnificently adorned churches were in every town we went to. The frescoes in Orvieto’s Duomo were particularly beautifully rendered. It was good to be back in the art world again. (All the Italy photos, by the way, were taken by Robert.)
Hand painted ceramics from Deruta in what's known as the grotesque style.
A mosaic on the front of Orvieto's magnificent Duomo.
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The view from Cantina Goretti in Umbria.
When we travel, Robert and I inevitably ask each other: “could you live here?” at some point during the holiday. Typically, my response is an emphatic yes or no, although sometimes it’s more of a qualified ” yes, if…” answer. I could live here IF I got a job here, IF I could speak French, IF I was very wealthy, and so on.
In terms of Umbria, my response was: wouldn’t it be fantastic to live here! The vineyards, the cafes, the olive groves, the hillside towns. What’s not to love about the scenery? Plus, the food is magnificent, the wine is spectacular. If I lived here, I would drive past gorgeous views like the one above every day. I could eat and drink like a real foodie.
Continuing on and really warming to my subject, I told Robert that I want to live near a local winery where I could bring in my cask and have it filled up at the pump, as the locals do at Goretti Winery (below). This place just happened to be our local winery during our holiday, so I could easily imagine myself becoming a regular there. In fact, I think I could get used to that Italian lifestyle pretty easily as I already tend to talk with my hands. That is, I could get used to it IF I could speak Italian. Maybe I need to work more on my Swedish first?
Inside the Goretti winery: Fill 'er up with the house red, please.
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Roger, Nici and me lounging poolside. Robert nicely acted as our photographer.
For two weeks, we got to stay at a real, honest-to-goodness Villa in Umbria. I felt like queen of the manor. (OK, I promise not to go on too much more about the trip to Italy. I know it’s not very Swedish lagom of me to keep talking about it.) The Villa Aureli is in Castel del Piano, just southwest of Perugia and for us sun-starved Stockholmers, the place was a paradise.
As the weather was not only sunny but also hot, we had to spend a lot of time sitting by the pool drinking white wine to cool off. We made ourselves stroll around the beautiful gardens as well as it seemed the right thing to do. Robert even did some nice sketches while Nici and I took photographs. And we had to sample the owners Limoncello since the lemons were grown right there in the gardens.
I am happy to say that we all survived the experience. If only for a short time, it was good to imagine myself living the life of an Italian noblewoman. I think I could get used to it.
One of the many lemon trees in the garden.
The back view of the gardens around the villa as well as the orangery where all the lemon trees are stored for the winter.
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Posted in Book musings, Italy, Travels, tagged An American traveller, Eating in Italy, Florence restaurants, Sandra Carpenter's book, travel writing, Umbria holiday, Umbria restaurants on June 29, 2009|
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In Spello, we walked by this restaurant and could see from the street that it had a fantastic view. But we walked on as we had planned to go back to the Villa and cook dinner. Happily, we changed our minds as the view was too good to pass up – we enjoyed Prosecco and an amazing vista.
Some of the best times we had on our Italian trip were the result of either happy accidents or referrals. In Florence, we ate at a place that we had been to several years ago. My friend Bryn’s brother is a chef and he had recommeded Trattoria La Casalingua to her. She in turn passed the tip on to me. We ate there again and found that the food is still fantastic, by the way.
In Montefalco, we went to a winery that had a huge tour group come in just after we arrived. We asked for a referral to another good winery. Feeling sorry for us, they very nicely recommended another fantastic winery called Antonelli. We had a fantastic tasting there and loved the wines so much that we bought several bottles. As we packed up our purchases, I asked for a dinner recommendation. The recommended spot was a tasting restaurant named L’Alchimista. Set in the beautiful center of the old town, the location and the food were amazing. Once again, we were all happy.
One of the many bands getting ready to perform in Spoletto.
Spoleto is where the happy accidents came in. After arriving in this charming town that dates to the 4th century, we sat down to lunch and it immediately started raining. It was not just a drizzle. It was a downpour. So we waited. And we ate and drank until we could neither eat nor drink any more. Just as we were ready to give up on seeing this town, the sun came out. As did all of these musicans as a choral and band festival with performers from all over Italy could finally happen. So we walked the streets of Spoletto with marching bands and saw an amazing choral performance in an old church where the group sang “Swing low, sweet chariot” in Italian. It was like it had all been planned just for us.
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Some of the wonderful local goods to be sampled on the island of Isola Maggiore.
I am just back from two glorious weeks in Italy. Two weeks in a place like Umbria is never enough. Especially when you are there with good friends. Especially when you are drinking fantastic wines such as the Sagrantino that is made with Umbrian grapes. Especially when you are sampling the local cuisine – the pecorino cheeeses and the cinghiale sausages, the olives and the limoncello. My mouth is watering just now even thinking about it.
Adding to the perfection, we stayed in a villa that is owned by a descendent of Dante and dates back to the 16th century in Castell del Piano, which is just south of Perugia. It was a perfect location for exploring Umbria from, but it was also a perfect location for just staying and relaxing in as the Villa Aureli had beautiful gardens around it. (Being the English lit geek that I am, I could not help but think that I was strolling the park at Pemberley with Jane Austen’s Darcy.)
The nearby towns all seemed to be scenically and strategically situated on top of hills, date back to Roman and Etruscan times and be thoroughly charming with cobblestone streets and sidewalk cafes galore. Mary was everywhere: the Virgin Mary, that is. At most every corner, at every home and in every square, I would run into a statue of Mary with flowers or a candle or a combination of both in front of her. Religion is front and center in Italy. It’s quite a contrast to the much more secular Sweden.
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